East Arnhem Land is one of the last untouched areas of Australia, where pristine beaches and indigenous culture abound. It is a bit of a trek to get there but I promise it’s worth it. Plus, the fact that it is so out of the way is part of what makes it such an incredible place. Here is everything you need to know to plan your trip to East Arnhem Land:
Contents
When to visit East Arnhem Land
The best time to visit East Arnhem Land is in the dry season May to October, when the weather is best. The access roads into East Arnhem Land can also be limited during the wet season (November-May). Keep up to date with road reports here.
Getting There
It is an 11 hour drive from Darwin to Nhulunbuy, the main town in East Arnhem Land, or 8 hours from Katherine. The first part is sealed road then it’s a dirt track the rest of the way, so you will need a 4WD. Caravans are also not allowed – only sturdy camper trailers. The road is mostly in good condition so you can stick above 80 km/h except for a bad stretch between Mainoru and Bulman. There are heaps of corrugations and bull dust so take it easy, especially on the bends.
It is possible to do the drive in a day if you get an early start but I recommend splitting the drive across 2 days. That way, you have time to deal with any thing – like flat tyres – along the way. There is a free camp where the road turns left to Mainoru as well as plenty of gravel pits which you can find on the WikiCamps app. You can also camp at the Mainoru Store for $40 for a powered site or $30 for unpowered. The store, which is open from 8am-6pm is also the best place to fill up on fuel along the way. You can also fuel at the Gulin Gulin Community Store.
Alternatively, you can fly to Gove Airport from Darwin or Cairns. This is a much more expensive option however, as return flights cost upwards of $500 per person. You would also need to hire a car in Nhulunbuy or join onto a tour in order to see everything.
Permits
There are a number of permits you will need to travel into and around East Arnhem Land:
Transit Permit
Needed to travel along the Central Arnhem Highway. It is a free permit available from the Northern Land Council. The permit can take up to 2 weeks to come through so make sure to apply ahead of your trip. In the application you will need to provide all details of your trip, the places you plan to visit and stay, as well as the details of your vehicle and passengers.
Dhimurru General Permit
The Visitor Access Permit for the Dhimurru Recreation Areas. You will need this permit for all the main attractions, such as Goanna Lagoon, the Granite Islands and all the beaches. There are several options for permits depending on how long you plan to stay:
- Family Annual Permit (includes two adults and up to four children) – $186.50
- Individual Annual Permit – $96.50
- One Month Visitor Access Permit for individuals – $76.50
- 14 Day Visitor Permit for individuals – $49.40
- 3 Day Visitor Access Permit for individuals – $33.50
- Children – all permits up to one month – $15.50
Camping Permits
Available from the Dhimurru Aboriginal Corporation. Once you have your General Permit, use the permit number to login and book campsites. The price for each campsite booking is $15 per adult or $6 per child. Some places require you to purchase a camping permit in order to visit, even if you only plan a day visit. These are: Wanuwuy (Cape Arnhem), Ganami (Wonga Creek), Gapuru (Memorial Park) and Manangaymi (Scout Camp). There are limited permits available for these sites so they will often book out well in advance, but if you manage to get them you’ll have the place pretty much to yourself.
Alcohol Permits
East Arnhem Land is a dry area, so you will need a permit in order to buy takeaway alcohol. To get a permit fill out the form and provide a valid ID. There are different levels of permits which determine how much alcohol you are allowed to buy. Temporary Visitors to East Arnhem Land will have a Level 1 permit which allows you to purchase six 375ml cans of light beer and/or one bottle of wine.
What To Do in East Arnhem Land
DAY ONE: GAPURU (MEMORIAL PARK)
After a couple of days on the road the first stop you’ll pass is Gapuru (Memorial Park), home to a network of stunning freshwater pools. Spend the day sunbathing and chilling by the the water before retreating back to camp. You can only visit Memorial Park with a camping permit, so make sure to book ahead as there is only one permit given per day. Gapuru is definitely the hardest permit to get and is often fully booked up a month or two in advance. Each permit can include up to 5 vehicles – so it will only be you (and your convoy) there.
The road in is fairly narrow but you shouldn’t meet anyone coming the other way since there is only one permit a day.
DAY TWO: GIDDY RIVER & GOANNA LAGOON
GIDDY RIVER
Giddy River (Guwatjurumurru) is a peaceful spot where two sections of the river meet at a waterfall. The upper section has perfect water for a paddle, but I’d avoid the lower section in case of crocs. There are picnic areas for a day visit, or you can camp there. There are 3 campsites to choose from, each accommodating up to 15 people. I recommend campsite 2 – it is right by the Giddy River waterfall and has a toilet and fire pit.
The track in is very narrow and uneven, with a couple of small river crossings.
GOANNA LAGOON
Goanna Lagoon, which is part of the Latram River (Wathawuy), was easily one of my favourite stops in East Arnhem Land. It is a crystal clear stream that runs through a eucalyptus forest. Even on a cloudy day it blew me away. It also has several options for camping within walking distance of the Lagoon, on either side of the river. There are two campsites at Wathawuy: one at Goanna Lagoon and one further down at the Latram River campsite. The three Goanna Lagoon campsites are very convenient to access the swimming hole but Latram River ones are probably more private. The campsites are large enough for 15 people except for sites 5 and 6 at the Latram River, which hold up to 6 people.
The track in is mostly fine with some steep sections and one river crossing to navigate.
DAY THREE: EXPLORE THE TOWNS IN EAST ARNHEM LAND
YIRRKALA
Before heading into Nhulunbuy, stop off in Yirrkala at the Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Centre. It is an art centre and museum that is owned and predominantly run by the indigenous Yolŋu people from the surrounding homelands. You can wander around simply admiring the artwork and sculptures, or purchase something to take home with you. If you’re lucky, you’ll even catch one of the local women working on their pieces. Make sure to head down the steps into the back room that houses the Yirrkala Church Panels, which were easily the highlight for me. They are two huge panels that were originally installed in the Yirrkala Methodist Church. Each panel is painted by each of the two moieties (“halves”) of the Yolŋu people, called Dua and Yirritja, and depicts the clans and creation stories of the Yolŋu.
NHULUNBUY & BEACHES
You’ll notice Yirrkala is a smaller indigenous community compared to Nhulunbuy, the main town. Nhulunbuy is where you’ll find shops to stock up, the petrol station and places to stay. There are several beaches within 10 minutes drive of Nhulunbuy. These are: Gaḏalathami (Town Beach), Wirrwawuy (Cape Wirrawoi), Middle Beach and Gäluru (East Woody). Either plan a beach day at one or split your time between them. You can sunbathe to your heart’s content or go for a dip if you’re feeling brave, but watch out for crocodiles.
As the sun sets, head to East Woody Island. It’s a popular spot with locals and you can walk right out to the island at low tide. Take some drinks with you and watch the colours change before heading back to town. There are two main caravan parks in Nhulunbuy: Gove Boat Club ($40) and the Walkabout Lodge ($45). Both have power and facilities. The Gove Boat Club is the best of the two as it is right by the beach and has a bar/restaurant with an awesome view. It does tend to book out in advance.
All of the beaches just outside Nhulunbuy are accessible on sealed roads.
DAY FOUR: THE GRANITE ISLANDS
If you have a boat, take it out to the Granite Islands. They are a collection of small islands only 30 minutes or so from the mainland. The largest one is a tropical paradise with some small sandy beaches you can anchor on and explore the island. The fishing around the islands is apparently amazing. Don’t worry if you don’t have your own boat – you can hire one from Gove Boat Hire. The cost is $125 per day + a deposit that will cover your fuel.
Head back to the Gove Boat Club for a sunset drink by the ocean.
DAY FIVE: BAWAKA HOMELAND
Bawaka Homeland is a closed indigenous community that is only accessible by a tour with Lirrwi Tourism. They have several options for tours from one day tours to multi-day tours. I chose the Yolnu Day Tour which takes you around Bawaka Homeland’s highlights. It is roughly 1.5 – 2 hours drive from Nhulunbuy on a sand track to the Bawaka Homeland. It is home to pristine white sand and palm trees, as well as Nike the resident crocodile. After spending some time at the Homeland with the traditional owners, you’ll drive out to the incredible Lonely Beach and go spearing mud crabs. The tour costs $450 and is worth every penny.
The tour will return to Nhulunbuy around 4 or 5, which should leave plenty of time to head out to Baṉambarrŋa (Rainbow Cliff) before the sun sets. The cliff edge itself is a sacred site, but the campsites are only a few metres back. Site 1 is the most secluded, but the sites farthest down have access to the beach. Each spot has a fire pit and awesome view over the coast.
DAY SIX: THE BEACHES OF EAST ARNHEM LAND
Little Bondi Beach (Baringura)
Probably the most popular spot as you can camp right on the beautiful white sand beach. The locals say you can swim there but there are crocs and jellies about so do so at your own risk! Because you’ll have to drive on the beach, you’ll need a 4WD and to let your tyres down.
Turtle Beach (Ngumuy)
The smallest and most secluded of the beaches in the area. There are a few campsites sheltered in the trees just back from the beach.
Macassan Beach (Garanhan)
Another stunning beach area with some rockpools to hang out in and cliffs to fish from. It is fairly exposed to the elements if you plan on camping, but the positive of this is that the wind keeps the bugs away. Make sure you check out the rock art walk which tells the history of the Macassan traders from Indonesia and their relationship with the indigenous people of East Arnhem Land.
Daliwuy (Binygjarrnga)
The southernmost of the four beaches and is the best if you have a boat you would like to launch. Plenty of locals come here to fish and there is lots of wildlife to spot too! You definitely don’t want to be swimming here though as there are crocodiles about, especially since they release captured crocs here.
The Dhimurru Coastal Walking Trail consists of three short walks that take you between the beaches. Make sure you prepare before heading off on any walks as there is no phone signal or potable water along the route. Wear long trousers and closed shoes in case of snakes.
The distances between them are as follows:
- Daliwuy Bay to Macassan Beach: 3.2km
- Macassan Beach to Turtle Beach: 2.5km
- Turtle Beach to Little Bondi: 1.5km
DAY SEVEN: CAPE ARNHEM
Roughly an hour and a half south of Nhulunbuy you’ll find Cape Arnhem, an absolute must-do in East Arnhem Land that I was couldn’t get a permit for! When I looked the campsites were booked for a good month or so ahead, so make sure to book in advance. You can pick from 4 designated camp sites with tables and fire pits, as well as a drop toilet. Apparently campsites 1 and 2 are the best as they are the most spacious. The only downside is that there is a lot of rubbish washed up on the beach, so make sure to do your part and take some rubbish back to town with you.
Access to the Cape is along a sandy 4WD track, so make sure to let down your tyres accordingly. Keep an eye on tide times too as part of the track is along the beach. These are not waters you want to get stuck in!
All up a trip to East Arnhem Land requires at least 10 days to properly enjoy (7 days to explore + 3 days travelling there and back), but if you have the chance to stay for longer I seriously recommend it. As always, if you ever have questions feel free to contact me or message me on Instagram!
