Thailand’s second largest island, Koh Samui, is a popular destination for tourists looking to escape to tropical white-sand beaches and crystal clear waters. We stayed near Chaweng to the East and rented a scooter for 200 baht per day (although they can go for as little as 150) – the perfect base for our adventures.
Here is our guide to making the most of your time on the island:
Day 1: North Koh Samui
Wat Plai Laem
A mere 20 minute scooter ride North from Chaweng takes you to this Chinese-Thai temple famous for its two enormous, colourful statues: the first depicting Guanyin, the Chinese Goddess of Mercy and Compassion; the second, the jolly, fat Buddha. The entire temple complex floats serenely on a lake full of fish, which you can feed for 10 baht.
Wat Phra Yai
Around the corner from Wat Plai Laem is the aptly named “Big Buddha” towering over a little tourist village on the island of Koh Farn, connected to mainland Koh Samui by a dirt-track causeway. This temple was more bustling than the first, especially as you’ll find market stalls and cafes at the temple steps. Both temples are free to enter, but for a small donation you can write your name on one of the tiles the monks will use for the temple roof.
Fisherman’s Village
This quaint, historic area of Bophut has a distinctly trendy vibe. This becomes quickly obvious as the goods for sale (and, even more noticeably, the prices) are quite upmarket compared to the average Koh Samui shop. It’s nevertheless definitely worth a visit as it has a lively atmosphere, and the restaurants on the beachfront have an amazing view looking out towards Koh Phangan.
W Bar Koh Samui
The hill leading up to the W Hotel is really steep. So steep, in fact, that I crashed my scooter (although that’s probably more of a reflection on my terrible driving than anything else). It’s when you get to the top and walk out onto Woo Bar’s terrace that your efforts are rewarded a billion times over: a crystal clear infinity pool gazing out over jungle and ocean alike. Prepare to fork out $1,000 baht on entry if you’re not staying at the hotel, which is redeemable against any of the cocktails and snacks on the menu – certainly not for the budget backpacker but we spent a good few hours here to get our money’s worth.
Day 2: Centre and South Koh Samui
Na Muang I and II
Whilst there are several waterfalls on Koh Samui, the Na Muang falls (about 40 minutes from Chaweng) are undoubtedly the most well-known. Both the upper and lower falls are a must-see as they are quite different, and accessible within a few minutes drive from each other. Na Muang I is by far the most touristy as it is only a short, flat walk from the car park. It’s also the more dramatic of the two with a 18m cascade. Na Muang II requires a 20-30 minute walk in the sweltering Thai heat, so you truly earn a swim in the rock pools at the top.
Mummified Monk
One of the more bizarre sights Koh Samui has to offer is the decaying body of a meditating monk on display at Wat Khunaram. The story goes that the monk Luong Pordang died 40 years ago while in a deep meditative state and his body put on display as a demonstration of buddhist beliefs on life and death. The Mummified Monk is found just off the road from the Na Muang falls, and well worth a quick pit stop.
Secret Buddha Garden
This was easily the highlight of our time on the island and a surprisingly as yet hidden gem. The garden is the creation of retired Durian farmer Khun Nim, who turned his family’s land into a peaceful sanctuary of statues and temples. Honestly, it felt like we were in a fairytale. The drive up to the garden, a winding road through the jungle that seems to go on forever, could be a must-do in itself.
Our tips? Ignore anyone who tells you the road is only accessibly by 4×4, and if you think you’ve gone too far, keep going.
Hin Ta – Hin Yai
These rock formations along Koh Samui’s east coastline, also known as the Grandfather and Grandmother rocks, are named so because they bear more than a passing resemblance to male and female genitalia. They have become a popular tourist destination for both their peculiarity and spectacular views, especially for sunset.
Day 3: East Koh Samui
Coral Cove
Nestled behind the Coral Cove Resort is a far more peaceful alternative to the crowded beach of Chaweng, and less than 10 minutes away. We initially came across it because I was dying to find somewhere to snorkel, and it seems like one of the few places you can on mainland Koh Samui. The water was beautifully warm and clear and I even managed to spot a pair of octopods!
Silver Beach
Another recommended snorkelling spot, also known as Haad Thong Ta-Khian, is literally minutes away from Coral Cove. It is a tranquil oasis that currently remains comparatively undiscovered other than by the patrons of the hotels and restaurants that run along the shore. Depending on how you find the snorkelling, you can easily try your luck at both beaches.
Lad Koh Viewpoint
On the way back towards Chaweng after a relaxing day of snorkelling and sunbathing, pull over on the side of the road for a stunning lookout over Koh Samui. On a clear day you’ll be able to see across miles of tropical jungles and beaches.
Jungle Club
At the peak of yet another perilous motorbike ride you will find this dream sunset spot facing the turquoise sea. We initially went for one drink but ended up staying for dinner too once major food envy set in, sharing a delicious wood-fired pizza at a much more reasonable price than the “Western” restaurants in Chaweng. Booking ahead is recommended as although we got lucky, the Jungle Club fills up fast!
