The West MacDonnell Ranges (Tjoritja) are a popular trip out West of Alice Springs, not least because they are so easily accessible by a 132km stretch of sealed road. As such it is very possible to explore its gorges and waterholes in one day. Many tours do – but to get the full experience 2 days are definitely best. This will allow you to relax, swim or hike at each stop rather than constantly rushing to move on to the next.
How to get to the West MacDonnell Ranges
Simply follow the Larapinta Drive westwards from Alice Springs, past the Alice Springs Desert Park. It only takes about 20 minutes (19km) to reach the first stop on your journey – Simpson’s Gap. From there you can continue straight until you get to the Namatjira Drive Intersection (roughly 46km out of Alice Springs). Take the right turn to continue on the Namatjira Drive, leading you past all the best places which fork off the main road. Although there are several stretches of unsealed road to reach the campsites or gorges themselves, they are usually no more than a few kilometres. You should be fine if you only have a 2WD… as long as you take it slowly and carefully!
When to visit
The best time to visit most of Australia’s Red Centre is between May and September, when the weather is cooler and therefore a lot more pleasant. From October to March temperatures will often reach above 36 degrees celsius. It’s uncomfortable but manageable provided you wake up early and get most of your hiking done before the midday heat. Also bear in mind that towards the end of the dry season (August-October) the waterholes start looking a little empty. That’s not to say there’s no water, just considerably less than the abundant swimming spots you’ll find other times of the year. The area is undoubtedly beautiful regardless, so there’s no bad time to visit.
Where to visit in the West MacDonnell Ranges
Simpson’s Gap
Simpson’s Gap is the first place you’ll find on your drive out of Alice Springs, close enough to the city that it can even be reached by a 17km bike path. Walk along the short, wheel-chair accessible path to reach the gap itself. Although you can’t swim here, it’s a lovely place to sit and admire the scenery and hopefully catch a glimpse of the black-footed rock-wallabies Simpson’s Gap is home to.
Standley Chasm
I hate to say it but Standley Chasm was easily my least favourite stop, not least because it was the only destination that charged entry ($12 for an adult, $10 if you’re an NT resident). It definitely has a more touristy feel, with a bustling restaurant at the entrance. It’s only a 10 minute walk to the chasm which is probably why it’s so popular with the tour groups. However impressive it was to look at, it was such a brief experience that it felt a bit like “Meh”… especially given the other places to see in the West Macs. Would I pay it again? Probably not.
Ellery Creek Big Hole
Though the 1km unsealed road down to Ellery Creek Big Hole is bumpy in patches, the end result is totally worth it. A short, winding path from the car park opens up onto sandy beaches and a vast swimming hole surrounded by rock formations. On a hot summer’s day, it’s perfect for a relaxing swim and sunbathe. Camping is also allowed and was one of my favourite camps due to it’s sociable feel – all the camping spots encircle a communal fire pit so you may find yourself making friends over a few beers around a campfire!
Serpentine Gorge
At the end of a 1.3km relatively flat walk you’ll find this tiny gem of a waterhole, nestled in between the rock faces of what appears a small gorge. If you brave the climb up to the look out (which isn’t far, just really quite steep!), you’ll realise the gorge is ENORMOUS. It’s also an awesome vantage point across the whole of the West MacDonnell Ranges. It makes the climb totally worthwhile!
Ochre Pits
It’s worth making a quick pit-stop to see this Aboriginal sacred site, the deposit from which the local Arrarnta people source the different-coloured ochre they use for rituals. Take the time to read the information here to get a better understanding of the uses of the various ochre colours as well as the significance of the ochre pits themselves to the Indigenous men.
Ormiston Gorge
There’s no denying that Ormiston Gorge is one of the more popular stops along the West MacDonnell Ranges, and it’s not hard to see why. The stunning waterhole is there year-round, albeit significantly smaller in drier months, and is perfect for a refreshing dip. It’s an easy 500m walk from the visitor centre. BUT if you’re feeling more adventurous the Ghost Gum Walk is incredible. Whilst you can choose to do the 20-minute hike up to the Ghost Gum lookout and return the way you came, the full circuit – roughly 1h30 mins – was so worth it.
Glen Helen Gorge
The Glen Helen Gorge wasn’t my favourite, I’ll admit. That’s the great thing about the West MacDonnell Ranges, though – all of the gorges are so spectacular that even the “least favourite” is still incredible. There you’ll find a large, inviting swimming spot tucked between imposing rock walls and lush green reeds. It’s also home to several species of fish and waterbirds that come to rest in its waters. You can also camp at the Glen Helen Resort (not what it sounds like) which marks the start of the path to the Gorge; however, there is free bush camping on the opposite side of the road to the Glen Helen entrance. The main difference, of course, is there are no facilities at the “Two Mile” bush camp… but its camping spots right on the banks of the river make it far more popular with locals.
Redbank Gorge
Definitely the most underrated of all the gorges. That’s likely because it is the least readily accessible – what begins as a nice, sealed road deteriorates for the majority of the 5km to the gorge. I successfully made it in a 2WD but there were moments where I questioned the car’s off-road capabilities, especially when the road unexpectedly took a VERY steep descent. If you’re a confident driver and you take it steady, you shouldn’t have any troubles.
I loved Redbank Gorge because there is so much more to it than meets the eye. It is ostensibly a peaceful and picturesque waterhole, but if you swim across the water and deeper into the gorge you’ll find an unknown world between the rock faces. There are two areas en route to Redbank Gorge where you can camp for a small fee, but I chose the Ridgetop Camp as it offers insane views over the surrounding area, especially at sunrise and sunset.
Where to stay in the West MacDonnell Ranges
If you can, I definitely recommend camping at least a night (or two) in the West MacDonnell Ranges so that you can spend longer exploring all the gorges and waterholes. Most of the gorges have their own campsites which means you can stay close by and have them to yourself in the morning and evening without the day-trippers there! My suggestions are:
- Ellery Creek Campground: sociable campsite with basic facilities but no reception – bookable through the NT Parks booking system (Adult: $6 / night, child: $3 / night)
- Ormiston Gorge Campground: a decent campsite with good facilities (BBQs, shower, toilets, kiosk) but it does get busy and has a lot less charm than the more rugged bush camps – payment via the kiosk or honesty box (Adult: $10 / night)
- Glen Helen Discovery Parks: expensive but will provide power and water hookup if you need it – booking through Discovery Parks ($45 / night member rate, $80 / night non members, $65 / night unpowered)
- Finke River 2 Mile Campground: my personal favourite, right on the banks of the Finke River with a stunning view over Mount Sonder. No electricity or facilities and accessible by 4WD only, but that only adds to the charm! Bookable through the NT Parks booking system (Adult: $6 / night, child: $3 / night)
- Ridgetop Redbank Gorge Campground: sites with incredible views over the landscape and basic drop toilets – bookable through the NT Parks booking system (Adult: $6 / night, child: $3 / night)
If you feel more comfortable in a hotel than a tent, it is possible to stay overnight in Alice Springs and visit the West MacDonnell Ranges as a day trip. It isn’t hugely far to travel but you will be a little rushed to see everything in a day.
Where next?
If you’re planning to head back to Alice Springs, you can either simply return the way you came (roughly 2 hours drive) or return by the Larapinta Drive. This is the other road from the Namatijira Drive Intersection and will lead you past the entrances for the Owen Springs Reserve, Wallace Rockhole and Palm Valley. Alternatively, you can continue the adventure along the rest of the Red Centre Way, taking the Mereenie Loop to King’s Canyon and on to Uluru. For this you will definitely need a 4WD, as the 197km section of unsealed road is in notoriously bad condition. You’ll also need to buy a permit ($5) from the Alice Springs Visitor Information Centre in order to drive the loop. You can check out my guide to visiting Uluru here.
I recommend spending at least 2 days in the West MacDonnell Ranges, camping at one of the many campsites along the way, though you can easily make this longer. In fact, if you have the time to spare I definitely suggest you do! If you would like any more advice or tips for planning your trip to the West MacDonnell Ranges – or any other trip for that matter – feel free to contact me or message me on Instagram!
